touareg steering

[bigoggy]

how can i make the steering on my toe rag better? ive got both diffs locked and the steering circle is is huge. how can i make it better?

[McFig]

Locking the front diff is what really limits your turning radius.

[Moondoggie]

Don't think it helps the turning radius, but on any CC-01 chassis I have had, I always replace the plastic steering shaft with a metal rod and ball bearings.

That helped reduce the resistance to the servo. The reason I did this the first time was because the plastic shaft got jammed up with dust and grit and would not turn very well anymore, making steering nearly impossible.

If you are looking for better turning radius though, I have seen people Dremel up their chassis a bit and mount the servo for a direct link to the turn knuckles.

I have no idea how much that would help though.

[Pete359]

Don't think it helps the turning radius, but on any CC-01 chassis I have had, I always replace the plastic steering shaft with a metal rod and ball bearings.


Any pict. that shows how you done this? ;)

[Moondoggie]

Sure, I'll have to go take some pictures of it...

I have a top chassis shot but that does not show the steering shaft close up.

[Pete359]

Great, thanks, will be waiting :yourock:

[Moondoggie]

Ok here are the pics!

Created the shaft out of brass rod cut to the right length:
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww35/epiccrawler/f84d9fef.jpg


Bearings fit on each end after shaving down the diameter:
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww35/epiccrawler/88c1b26a.jpg


The hole in the chassis needs to be drilled out on the top and bottom just enough for the bearings to fit snug inside. The top of the plastic shaft was cut off so that I could attach it to the rod. It is attached by drilling a hole through the side and inserting a pin. The green cable tie is holding the pin in:
http://i703.photobucket.com/albums/ww35/epiccrawler/0fb8670a.jpg


The bottom is done the same way but with the other plastic arm that normally screws into the bottom of the plastic shaft. I actually did the bottom first since there is limited room for the metal rod to be sticking out.

The other thing I had to be careful of was to make sure that the top arm and bottom arm had the correct angle to each other.

Hope that helps explain it. :D Maybe I could get some better pictures sometime. The first and second picture show an extra rod I had laying around.:p

[Pete359]

Thanks for that great tips!
I will try this on my Pajero soon.:D

[Wyoming]

It works quite well, I've also done this to most of my XCs or I just pack around the plastic steering shaft full of heavy axle grease to keep dirt out until I can get around to putting in bearings.

[Moondoggie]

Oh it's also worth mentioning that if you have a rod that fits in the bearings perfectly there is obviously no need to shave the diameter down. :) I had to because that was the size of brass rod I had on hand. ;)

[monster_beetle]

This is a good tip, gotta do that to my xc's :)

[Moondoggie]

Thanks! Glad to provide some useful info! :D

[bigoggy]

thats a good tip, but i still need to get more steering angle. anyone else got some good ideas

[Moondoggie]

thats a good tip, but i still need to get more steering angle. anyone else got some good ideas

Not sure how great it is for an XC but I know for the TLT some people have dremeled out the plastic turn knuckles to get more angle. Some also buy aftermarket knuckles to replace the plastic ones. Just a thought.

[Wyoming]

Yes, I've used the 5mm steel gear support shafts from some old Tamiya touring cars before when i was to lazy to use my lathe to make the pins.

[Skip]

Got a similar system made for me by Mud-Plugger from TamiyaClub - it uses flanged bearings so they cant move at all. I didnt realise how bad the steering was until I went out one day and could only turn left! :rolleyes: