Bruiser restoration and update

[octanas]

Some times I get myself into some strange/odd situations. This time I bougth a used Bruiser on ebay wich I plan to restore and also bring it up to some 21 century specifications.

Here is how it looks at the moment:
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_14.jpg

Here are some picts of the "under the body":

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_01.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_02.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_04.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_05.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_06.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_07.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_08.jpg

as you can see the is some rust in the chassis but it seems that, in some point of it's life, it was painted in black and that paint helped to prevent more corrosion on the chassis... but it looks ugly. I can see that I will spend quite a lot of time cleaning this chassis and making it shiny.

And now... for the nightmare... the previous owner installed a light system on the car... the only problem is the 80's technologies that were used to do this...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_10.jpg

From what I can see, this bodyshell is behond any repairs... going to try and save the body details like the front grill, light buckets, rear lights, interior, windshield, etc.

Does anyone have any idea if this this bodyshell can be "recovered"?

[Arcocustom]

Well, that truck has had a rough life. The body can probably be saved. It's gonna take some work though. Looks like there is glue of some sort in places and that will probably be the most challenging part. Removing that stuff. The outside refinnishing should be straightforward. The interior looks pretty bad, but should be salvagable. Looks like alot of work though. Does the transmisson work? That's the hardest and most expensive part to fix/ replace. Fortunately there are alot of websites with new and reproduction parts. Here are a few.

http://www.bruiserbuilder.com/
http://www.rc4wdstore.com/2/
http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Jasons-Store__W0QQ_armrsZ1QQ_fsubZ8


Hope that helps and good luck with your project.:Tamiya1::crawlers:

[octanas]

I haven't tested the transmission... it rotates by hand and also can shift the gears but, honestly, I'm not concerned with the transmission and axels... not going to keep them for the following reasons:

Diference in wide between the front and rear axel;
Don't have full 4x4 when going in reverse because of the one-way bearings in the front hubs. I know that I can "mod" the gearbox to make it 4x4 in all gears, but the reverse "problem" remains;
I don't have a stick radio or a radio with a 3 position switch to use the gears.


I want to build a car with leaf springs in the front and 4 link in the rear and also use a 1 speed or a 2 speed gearbox... but this might change during the process of rebuilding this car.

Regarding the glue in the inside of the bodyshell... it looks like araldite type of glue. How can I remove this type of glue without damaging the parts?

[Siggy]

Nice truck. Do you have pictures of the body to see extent of what's needed to be done? Dont use those strong thinners or CA remover/solvents, for sure.

[Arcocustom]

Wow! Araldite is gonna be tough. Searched and found chemical compound recipes for removers. Way too dangerous and will melt plastic. Alot of suggestions involving heat. That won't work. Here's the ones I think won't destroy the body.

Mechanical removal. Chipping, scraping, sanding, grinding, etc. works best.
Try testing a spot with WD-40.
Test a spot with lighter fluid (NAPTHA).
Household vinegar.
Everybody on the forums uses DOT 3 Brake Fluid from the auto store to strip the paint from these styrene bodys with great success. Don't use silicone type Brake Fluid because it won't do anyting and paint will never stick after that. Old type, non-silicone brake fluid will eat the paint right off of the body and may remove the glue along with it. Remember to completely wash the body before re-painting. DO NOT get Brake Fluid on anything you don't want stripped.:omg:

[octanas]

Nice truck. Do you have pictures of the body to see extent of what's needed to be done? Dont use those strong thinners or CA remover/solvents, for sure.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_09.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_11.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_12.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_13.jpg

In the last pict there is a crack in the rear bead right in front of the wheel well... not very clear in the pict can you can see that it cames all the way from the top to the wheel arch. The is also a small part missing right under the right door... think I can fill that gap with some styrene cuted to shape...

Now I have a simple/stupid question: I notice the obvious differences between the Bruiser bodyshell and the Mountainner bodyshell (the small rear cab) but I also notice that the bruiser shell sits higher than the mountainner... and I prefer the looks of the last one. My question is... how can I lower the body? The reason for asking this, is that the front bodymount can't go any lower. Should I buy/make a new front body mount or there is another way to do this?

[Arcocustom]

I Beleive the two share the same mounts and sit the same height. Here's a picture of Siggy's Trucks to compare side by side.
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=798
Here's the body mounts listed on e-bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-TOYOTA-HILUX-Bruiser-Mountaineer-Body-Mount_W0QQitemZ160332099187QQihZ006QQcategoryZ3406 1QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
You can get a new re production body fairly cheap at RPP Hobby.http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=104&productId=1630
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=800
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=104&productId=670
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=801
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=104&productId=673
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=803http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=802

[Siggy]

Thanks for the Pictures.

Your right, the body is repairable using styrene. It's a lot of bloody work while doing it, but lots of satisfaction when you compare before and after. If you find yourself pressed for time and not too keen on keeping them OG, you can use the front cab of Hilux high lift and cover the extra holes before you paint. I think moneywise, restoring maybe a tad more expensive.

In any case, try saving the stickers -- peel them carefully, be ready with a clean lexan plate to transfer. Given an opportunity, I'd take your body just for the stickers even if they are not in best condition. The paint underneath makes all the big difference.

Mountaineer and Brusier share same front cab and different bed. I did not notice that one is higher than the other. The Toyota 4x4 Pickup is the one that sits lower, as it has smaller tires.

In any case, you can't lower the body without taking out the switch cover. If that does not bother you-- might as well take out the box and fab a plate to put all these servos and switches.

Whatever you decide, it's going to be fun, that's for sure.

[Arcocustom]

Found a repro interior on e-bay.http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Toyota-Hilux-Hi-lift-Repro-Interior-Combo-COOL_W0QQitemZ360149770117QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRadio _Control_Vehicles?hash=item53da995f85&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14&_trkparms=%7C301%3A1%7C293%3A11%7C294%3A30
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=804
Searched e-bay under Mountaineer and there's alot of stuff.:link:http://toys.search.ebay.com/Tamiya-Mountaineer_Toys-Hobbies_W0QQfromZR40QQfrtsZ50QQsacatZ220


:Tamiya1::crawlers:

[Siggy]

yup, he used to sell just the driver -- now what's left is the driver's head.
Nicely executed reproductions, they are.

[Arcocustom]

Wyoming says you have to be a member, this site sells repro sticker sets.:link:http://tamiyaclub.com/parts_shop_repro.asp
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=805http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=806


:common001:

[octanas]

Thank you for your help, guys.

I've been looking at this bodyshell - trying to figure out what to do with it - and I thing I'm better off buying a new one... this means less trouble since I don't have the tools and skill to undertake a huge body repair.

Fortunatly I was able to remove some of the glued parts on the bottom of the interior... had to cut the glue... give a little pull... cut a little more... pull again and it eventually came off without braking anything :)

[Siggy]

These decals are so cool, Im ordering :)

I got those cheapo replicas printed on white vinyls on ebay -- they really aren't that good. Thanks for the heads-up!!! Are they really nice reproductions? I still got my OG decals for the mountaineer but dont have one side of the foils. Been searching for them, with no success. How are the foilks of these reproductions, Please LMK, If you guys have seen them in person.

[Arcocustom]

I think you have to join that club or forum. Check this thread.:link:http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com:80/forum/showthread.php?p=4949#post4949

PM Wyoming and ask for details.:)

[Siggy]

I am a member of the forum. I just did not see these being sold there. :)

[Siggy]

Don't have full 4x4 when going in reverse because of the one-way bearings in the front hubs. I know that I can "mod" the gearbox to make it 4x4 in all gears, but the reverse "problem" remains;?

If you get a pair of rear hubs and install them on the front, won't you havel 4x4 forward and reverse?

[octanas]

That will work but still leaves the difference in wide of front and rear axels

[Siggy]

Nick Rummy Axles then.

[Wyoming]

Looks like a nice project.

[octanas]

Decided to leave the bodyshell for a future time. Now it's time to strip the car down to it's smallest parts.

The car seems to have been through WWII, Kuwait, Somalia and a few other undercover wars but, surprisingly I was able to tear it apart in a little over than 1 hour and a half... except for the part were the rear fender is attached.

Every bolt and screw came off just like if they were brand new. In the end, I discovered that the nasty look of the chassis cames form the dirt, dust and leftovers of black paint.

Chassis without transmission...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_15.jpg

motor and gear box... this is huge!!!!
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_16.jpg

A few shots of the chassis...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_17.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_18.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_19.jpg

chassis doesn't seem to be bended...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_20.jpg

a result of one of those wars...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_22.jpg

For the time being the chassis is soaked in WD40 to see if it helps removing some of the rust, in order to remove the screws in the back section without striping any of them. Any help regarding this subject would be apreciated.

Leaf springs seem to be gone because they are bended in a severe way. Also the front shock mounts are bended, but those are fixable.

Tomorrow I'll try to go through the gearbox to see if it has any problems.

[Arcocustom]

This is the best stuff ever for rusty bolts.

http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=112&pictureid=829

Here's a product description.:link:http://www.levineautoparts.com/pbblaster1.html
Should be available at the auto parts store. It penetrates and will break those rusty bolts loose. Threadlock on the threads prevents this corrosion in the first place.

It's a miracle the frame's not bent! :LOL:

[Arcocustom]

Here's a:link:http://www.rummyrc.com/ to Rummy RC that siggy suggested about axle mods.


:Tamiya1::crawlers:

[octanas]

Thx.. i've seen it :thumb:

[Siggy]

Looks like your off to a good start heading the right direction. :rockon:

[octanas]

Managed to take the chassis apart... except for the far most rear end were the bumper attaches... those screws are to far rusty and I wasn't able to remove them.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_27.jpg

After this I started to work on the bodyshell... after taking the glue of I found out that it has more cracks than it appeared... seems the glue was holding it together :mad:

Never the less I was able to salvage the front grill, the windscreen, the headlights, the rear lights and the shade at on the back window... the rest is to far gone. Going to start looking a new bodyshell :eek:

[Arcocustom]

Never the less I was able to salvage the front grill, the windscreen, the headlights, the rear lights and the shade at on the back window... the rest is to far gone. Going to start looking a new bodyshell :eek:
There is a Bruiser body on e-bay. Only one day and 20 hours left to bid. :link:http://cgi.ebay.com/TAMIYA-BRUISER-BODY-hilux-mountaineer-crawler_W0QQitemZ250429980107QQcmdZViewItemQQptZRa dio_Control_Vehicles?hash=item3a4eca3dcb&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=72%3A1205%7C66%3A2%7C65%3A12%7C39%3A1%7C 240%3A1318%7C301%3A0%7C293%3A1%7C294%3A50

http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=839
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=841
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=843
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=118&pictureid=840

GOOD LUCK!:Tamiya1::crawlers:

[Northwest 4x4]

:help:Some one on here talked about leds from radio shack, my Q. is how did you wire the leds and what did you use to power them, I bought an off/on switch and I dont know how to wire them all together and what to power it with. I though that this way would be cheaper.

[octanas]

I didn't do any led wire on this car... when I got it it was already like this.

This seem to be powered by a 9V batery (there was a 9V plug in the circuit) and it has some resistors in the circuit, besides the leds... can't really say anything else about this job.

[octanas]

Just a small project advance

After beeing soaked in WD40 for 3 days, I used denatured alcohol for removing the paint and worked really great... in 15 minutes the paint came of just by passing the finger on it. Actually what I was trying to do, was to remove the grease left over by the WD40 ;)

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_28.jpg

After removing the messy light system, the bodyshell looks like this...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Body1.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Body2.jpg

Never the less, it's on sale on e*bay because I don't have the skills to restore it to a "almost" new bodyshell.

Just wainting on a few parts to arrive and then, it's time to start the assemble process.

[teebeehex]

Never the less, it's on sale on e*bay because I don't have the skills to restore it to a "almost" new bodyshell.

the problem here is that you'll never develop the skills if you don't try! :p

[keno4864]

:help:Some one on here talked about leds from radio shack, my Q. is how did you wire the leds and what did you use to power them, I bought an off/on switch and I dont know how to wire them all together and what to power it with. I though that this way would be cheaper.

Hi, This is what I did with the LED's. Each LED has a resistor to lower the
voltage so that it will not get busted. All are connected parallel to the
receiver connector of the ESC( in this circuit a Tamiya TEU-101BK esc) so
that the it will turn on when I turn the ESC switch on. :D
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/keno4864/100_8480-1.jpg
2 pairs front green and rear red standard LED 3mm diameter
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i99/keno4864/100_8463.jpg
I can also connect it parallel to the deans of the ESC so that it will turn on
when I connect the battery that is if I dont supply an individual switch. :)

[Siggy]

I think the body is restorable. Just need a bottle of thinner, glue, paint, time and patience the to get it back to decent condition. Maybe not a shelf queen body, but one that is usable and very decent. :)

[Siggy]

:help:Some one on here talked about leds from radio shack, my Q. is how did you wire the leds and what did you use to power them, I bought an off/on switch and I dont know how to wire them all together and what to power it with. I though that this way would be cheaper.

Tamiya TLU's make life easier. Powered by 7.2V. Other aftermarket give you additional whistles (e.g. left/right turn).

[octanas]

Starting to take shape...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_29.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_30.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_31.jpg

With bodyshell on top of things to have a general idea...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_32.jpg

[Moondoggie]

Excellent job cleaning up the chassis! :thumb:

[octanas]

Excellent job cleaning up the chassis! :thumb:

It does look a lot better now, doesn't it? :cool:

It seems a different chassis when compared with the "1st version".

[TubbyT]

With the chassis cleaned up and new shoes all around you can't even tell it's as old as it is. Super work, very meticulous.

[octanas]

Small advance... the front end is ready

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_33.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_34.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_35.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_36.jpg

I have plans to move the steering servo in to the frame later on but, for now it will stay on the axel.

[Siggy]

Nice axles!:cool:

[octanas]

I would rather go with high lift axels since they look like "the real thing" instead of the TLT ones... but this is what I had laying arround ;)

[Blazerbogger]

The TLT's are narrower and provide for a more scale appearance. I like the stance better with them. The body has a ton of potential, but I doubt that it will be able to take much abuse once it's fixed. The body looks sweet the way it is though. If you just glue the cracks, it would look like an old weathered truck. Sweet restoration!

[octanas]

Small advance in the bodyshell.

Coat of primer...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_38.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_37.jpg

Think this color will look good under the sun...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_39.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_40.jpg

and now I'm deep s#$%&t because I still have to paint all the details and I'm lacking the skills :mad:

Btw, I've sold the orginal "bodyhell" to a young boy (15 years old) who does 1:1 car restores and he managed to bring it up to a "brand new" condition. Must say he did a wonderfull job (I'll post the picts he sent me).

[octanas]

The "Before"...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Old_Body_1.jpg

and the "After"...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Old_Body_2.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Old_Body_4.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Old_Body_3.jpg

The kid said he needed 6 hours to bring it to this level and still not finished.

[octanas]

Went on with the paint work.

Detail masking...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_41.jpg

2 hours later of great strugle to keep my hand steady and wihtout shaking...
http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_42.jpg

Tomorrow I'll see the end result when I take off the masking tape... let's hope for the better :o

[Wyoming]

looking great so far!

[octanas]

I hope that tomorrow, after removing the masking, it will still look great :D

Wasn't able to paint the grill logo... tryed to paint the symbol but it didn't came out right... so I'll leave the letters in black.

[Moondoggie]

That looks really good! :cool:

[octanas]

Not a 100% perfect job, but I think it came out nicely (it was my 1st hardbody work)

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_43.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_44.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_45.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_46.jpg

[octanas]

Got the bodyshell done.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_48.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_49.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_50.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_51.jpg

[octanas]

Not much to be fully functional...

Lowered the bodyshell.. can't lower it no more than this beacuse it's sitting on top of the central transmission and, with the use, the leafs will "open" a little which will bring the front closer to the ground.

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_52.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_53.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_54.jpg

Articulation pict...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_55.jpg

[Blazerbogger]

That's one heck of a rig. I wish I could build a truck like that one day. I just have a hard time locating parts at reasonable prices.

[octanas]

Actually I'm trying to keep this car in a reasonable budget.

When I bougth the car on the 1st pict it costed me (postage included) arround 311€ = 388 USD (give or take a few dollars).

Then I sold the parts I wasn't going to use in order to lower the cost and I ended up with a complete chassis for less than 100 USD (the parts of this cars, on ebay, are a "sure sale" for a "nice price").

With the money from the sales, I bought the parts I was planning to use. Some parts I already had, like the axels and transmission... I had this for so long that I don't remember how much they costed me.

If I had to put a price tag on this, as it is at the moment, I would say arround 600 - 650 USD without the electronics (considering the costs of axels and transmission).

This is not "cheap" but I think this isn't a "huge" price. The most expensive part was the new bodyshell (those are expensive!!!). If I've used a cheaper bodyshell, I could take away a "modest" 120 USD of the final price tag.

[octanas]

The (re)build is finished...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_56.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_57.jpg

Just needs a "hard core" testing on the rocks to finish the setup.

[jeffro]

Good ole scrapes and scratches is what she needs, she looks mighty fine, excellent job. Now I need to find one .

[SMOKE-DOG]

Nice work and good color choice. Paint looks good, especially for your first hardbody. Painting small details can be tough.

[octanas]

It works great and I just got a brand new paint job

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_59.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_60.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_64.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_65.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_66.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_67.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_70.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_71.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_68.jpg

Video will follow soon.

[jeffro]

I can't wait to see the video, that turned out very nicely, Im jealous of your crawling area also, wow.. :cool:

[octanas]

Video in here (http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=637)

[octanas]

I can't wait to see the video, that turned out very nicely, Im jealous of your crawling area also, wow.. :cool:

This is a nice place for 2.2 scale rigs or 2.2 rock crawlers (hard enought but all obstacles are doable) but a way too "hard core" for 1.9... that's why I got lots of scratches on the brand new paint job.

[octanas]

And some new photos...

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_74.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_73.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_75.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_77.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_76.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_72.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_78.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_79.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_80.jpg

[McFig]

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_79.jpg

You even have a scale spider on there. Although, at that scale, thats a big spider. :D

Great shots and then truck looks great

[octanas]

That's a real live spider.
It came out and climbed to the truck... I though she could use a lift back to the woods :D

[octanas]

Due to the lack of use (only ran 2 or 3 times), the body is starting to get some rust... body panels made of dishwash machine metal, aren't good :D

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_81.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_82.jpg

http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h172/octanas/Rock%20Crawler/Tamiya_Bruiser/Bruiser_83.jpg

[jeffro]

Wow, you achieved real rust, isn't that what evrybody wants around here. I mean they go out of their way to create it and paint it to look like rust, Good job dude. :common001: