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DRW-FJ40
07-02-2009, 06:21 AM
I built my FJ40 CR-01 stock at first with intentions of upgrading. A recent “incident” which resulted in a fried ESC & servo forced me to upgrade sooner rather than later.

I went with a Novak 55T & Rooster Crawler. The lower speed of the 55T really helps in low speed control when crawling. I miss the speed when just playing around in the driveway. The set up required soldering which I had not done before. If you are in this boat as well, my advice is get directions from Novak’s site & practice first. It required more skill than I anticipated. Although the motor has more torque than stock, I didn’t notice it that much due to tires slipping. I’m thinking to really realize the added torque, wheel weights might be necessary and/or foam insert changes. That said, the lower range of speed really helped with control in the rocks.

When taking the original motor out, I noticed the drive shafts had begun to twist. I went with Junfac drive shafts. They have worked well so far & seemed very reasonable for the money. Interestingly, I paid less in shipping from Korea than I have on similar ebay items from the next state over. The weight of the stainless is not significant. Also, make sure the lock screw is actually seated in the hole of the shaft. as they don’t go all the way through the shafts like the Tamiya ones and they will come off if not seated properly.

Finally, I upgraded to a high torque metal gear servo with an aluminum arm. It is snappier than the cheapo that came with my radio especially turning in the rocks at a dead standstill. A worthwhile upgrade. I went through both my cheap plastic ones pretty quickly and am hoping this one will last a lot longer. Time will tell.

Arcocustom
07-02-2009, 01:09 PM
Well congrats on your newly upgraded crawler.:thumb:

Soldering can be intimidating. First, you need a good iron. Secood, the peices you intend to solder need to be clean. Also on new motor tabs, I lightly scuff the tabs with some sandpaper where the wire is to be soldered. Third, you need a good rosin core solder with a flux a in the solder wire. Fourth, pre-tin the wire and tabs. Fifth, you must get the parent metals sufficiently hot before applying solder. This takes practice and patience. On a good solder joint, you can see the solder flow and the wire and the tab join in a small puddle of solder.

Now as for the slower speeds. Good news, your run time will incarease as a result of installing the 55 turn engine. If you feel it is too slow, you can go to a lower wind motor, like a 35 turn. This is the popular set-up nowadays, with a good balance of wheelspeed, torque, and runtime. Using a hand wound version will even squeeze out a few more RPM's.;)

DRW-FJ40
07-06-2009, 05:25 AM
I think the iron is part of my problem. It's old which shouldn't matter but for whatever reason, I don't think it's getting hot enough.

I like the 55 turn motor too much to give up. I just miss my speed. Maybe I need to build another one... now I'm thinking.

Arcocustom
07-06-2009, 12:50 PM
I think the iron is part of my problem. It's old which shouldn't matter but for whatever reason, I don't think it's getting hot enough.

I like the 55 turn motor too much to give up. I just miss my speed. Maybe I need to build another one... now I'm thinking.

Your Iron is very important. A minimum of 60 watts is recommended. Here is one that has a seperate power supply that has adjustable temperature.
:link: http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXWFJ8&P=X

Tamiya makes a 35 turn brushed crawler motor for the CR-01.
:link: http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=54114


:)

DRW-FJ40
07-08-2009, 05:31 AM
I don't think my iron is hot enough. I'll have to upgrade & practice some.

BTW, after more run time, I notice the torque more on the 55T. I'm still loosing traction though on dry rock. I think I'll experiment with some wheel weights now that my drive shafts can take some punishment.

Arcocustom
07-08-2009, 09:41 AM
I don't think my iron is hot enough. I'll have to upgrade & practice some.

BTW, after more run time, I notice the torque more on the 55T. I'm still loosing traction though on dry rock. I think I'll experiment with some wheel weights now that my drive shafts can take some punishment.

Check the wattage on your iron. You need at least 60 watts.

Here are some crawler tires that will provide more grip.
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=48&productId=884
http://www.shop.rpphobby.com/product.sc?categoryId=174&productId=699

:)

Davitamol
09-04-2009, 11:12 AM
hi

can anyone tell me whats the differance between a 35t engine and 55t

wich one is faster and wich one is stronger?

im new to electric rc cars so have to learn alot

Arcocustom
09-04-2009, 11:29 AM
hi

can anyone tell me whats the differance between a 35t engine and 55t

wich one is faster and wich one is stronger?

im new to electric rc cars so have to learn alot

A 35 turn motor produces more RPMs than a 55 turn, while a 55 turn motor produces more TORQUE than the 35 turn. A 55 turn motor will have a longer run-times than a 35 turn motor. They both can be good winds for rock crawling. It just depends on what you want to do.

35 turn = more wheel speed
55 turn = more torque

Boweavel
09-04-2009, 08:47 PM
So I had to be different.. My 65 turn motor just arrived :D Probably stick with the Novak 55 tho, Seems to work well.