Seth, I know how you could make yourself even more popular.

[monster_beetle]

And that is by telling us your weathering techniques:D

[Moondoggie]

"I think he leaves them out in the weather." j/k

I'll let him answer for himself, but we were joking about what to do with a bruiser frame: Paint it with rust paint, (not color but a paint that actually rusts), then of course put that in a salt water bath. Weathering complete!

In any case he does weathering really well. :)

[Wyoming]

I use a mix of Tamiya weathering kits, arcrylic paints, artist dry pastels, oil pastels, oil paints, chalk, graphite, and flat laquer like Testors Dullcoat or lusterless flat. For hard bodies I want to look faded I paint them as usual with Tamiya TS sprays, then I do a coat of lusterless flat over that shiny paint. That makes it easier to apply the pastel. I scrape it with a knife onto the body in powder form and use a really soft fluffy brush to move it around, usually tans, browns etc. Then I clearcoat it again and most of it won't show, but many layers of this makes for a nice faded paint look. I also use washes of thinned paint or oil pastels to create washes, graphite sticks work great to wear metal edges like door jambs or truck bed edges. Rust can be done by putting solvent onto the paint in areas to make it bubble up a bit and then using real rust or rust paint into the little damaged paint areas, also you can dremel holes right into the body for more serious rust areas. Its all really a trial and error process with lots of practice. Its hard to "ruin" a nice shiny paint job but I just dive in and do it anyway. It is hard to mess up because you can always do more weathering or worst case scenario just strip it and start over. I'll try to take some photos soon of how I typically do it.

[monster_beetle]

:) thanks man, can't wait for the photos