View Full Version : My CR-01 Kit Build
Wild_Weasel
11-12-2009, 10:33 AM
Hi All,
Thanks for the great info and pics on this forum! I wish I had found it before having to rebuild my tranny due to the bearing not seating all the way though. I knew it was wrong (my Tamiya build motto is: "if it seems difficult or needs forcing I'm doing it wrong!). Tamiya simply makes the highest quality, most user friendly kits in the industry IMHO. Anyway, I built up my '73 Bronco kit and dropped an old nitro body on it to test it out. The nitro RTR that came with this body caused me to get out of RC for about 6 years...I am now back to electric and lovin' it again! Hope you enjoy the pics, the suspension works a lot better than I anticipated right out of the box. Except for the body this build is currently 100% stock.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2446/4098863530_741c0c1181_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2491/4098107615_53bfae0806_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2669/4098107449_b22f5632b0_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2593/4098863712_62c78bfe77_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2561/4098107277_71e34365b9_o.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2804/4098107175_65aa7e3a18_o.jpg
DRW-FJ40
11-12-2009, 11:03 AM
Nice looking truck wild weasle. the body looks good on there.
Arcocustom
11-12-2009, 12:52 PM
Well :welcomeani: back. Glad to have you here.
Wild_Weasel
11-12-2009, 06:07 PM
I wanted to build this truck and get a feel for it before making any mods. I am also contemplating what to do with the Bronco body that came with the kit. Mine is badly marked by the mold in very obvious places (across hood and roof) making it challenging for anything scale in appearance without cutting off the top. I measure about 11.2" for the wheelbase on my truck with stock link arms and would love to get my hands on a Ford Ranger body with a topper on it if anyone knows where to find such a thing? Otherwise I'm still looking for the right body for this truck.
I just installed STRC front steering knuckles and hub carriers on the front and the axle lockout kit with straight axles in the rear. It cleaned up the appearance and improved the scale factor for sure. No test drive yet so pics and more to come on that.
A bit more on the current electronics and plans for this build:
Futaba 3PM 2.4GHz Tx w/R603FF Rx
JR Sport ST126MG 126 oz/in metal geared servo
Dynamite Tazer 12T ESC
A variety of 6-cell NiMH packs
Plans:
arriving any day is the Castle Creations Sidewinder and 4600Kv motor combo with USB cable; Deans connectors for everything.
Next steps will be coil-over shocks to replace the cantilever system; possibly an extension of the rear links to extend wheelbase if I can't a body soon (I really like JAnderson's Quarry Defender) and aluminum beadlocks and wheels (waiting to find body first). An upgraded servo and full waterproofing are in the near future as well.
More pics as soon as the new ESC and motor are installed!
Arcocustom
11-12-2009, 07:11 PM
I am also contemplating what to do with the Bronco body that came with the kit. Mine is badly marked by the mold in very obvious places (across hood and roof) making it challenging for anything scale in appearance without cutting off the top.
Wow, do you have any pictures of what is wrong with the body? :confused:
I measure about 11.2" for the wheelbase on my truck with stock link arms and would love to get my hands on a Ford Ranger body with a topper on it if anyone knows where to find such a thing? Otherwise I'm still looking for the right body for this truck.
if I can't a body soon (I really like JAnderson's Quarry Defender)
Tamiya Bodies http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=796
arriving any day is the Castle Creations Sidewinder and 4600Kv motor combo with USB cable; Deans connectors for everything.
A variety of 6-cell NiMH packs
That brushless combo is not really meant for crawling. When you run the Castle Brushless Systems your batteries need to be soldered together side by side with battery bars and not spotwelded with tabs in a stick. If they are not, they will not withstand the load placed upon them. :eek:
Wyoming
11-12-2009, 08:00 PM
Looks like a fun machine, I remember having one of those nitro trucks from that other "T" company, I spent more time trying to start it than anything else and eventually I shot it... literally lol!:dance: The mold lines on the Bronco body really don't show much when its painted I don't even notice them on mine. It is a model afterall so like body posts on a touring car or an antenna I don't see them after awhile.
http://i354.photobucket.com/albums/r416/wyomingrc/DSC07871.jpg
Wild_Weasel
11-12-2009, 08:59 PM
Wow, do you have any pictures of what is wrong with the body? :confused:
That brushless combo is not really meant for crawling. When you run the Castle Brushless Systems your batteries need to be soldered together side by side with battery bars and not spotwelded with tabs in a stick. If they are not, they will not withstand the load placed upon them. :eek:
Wyoming seems to have the same issue and it does look fine on his very nice bronco when painted. Maybe I'll give the Bronco a try and see what happens.
Thanks for the info on the brushless system and batteries. :thumb: It will be my first brushless and was purchased more to play with and because it was a good price. The motor may get changed out for something else based on your info. I was primarily after the programable USB interfaced ESC that works either brushed or brushless.
Arcocustom
11-12-2009, 09:39 PM
Thanks for the info on the brushless system and batteries. :thumb: It will be my first brushless and was purchased more to play with and because it was a good price. The motor may get changed out for something else based on your info. I was primarily after the programable USB interfaced ESC that works either brushed or brushless.
No problem, just watch the heat. A brushless system draws some serious power. The spot welds on stick packs just have too much resistance and create alot of heat. Here's a pack I barbecued a few months ago that I had hooked to my 7700KV Mamba Maxx.
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2714/4099329801_4fc67b3e31_b_d.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2486/4099329799_3399fa1efe_b_d.jpg
Pretty sure the Sidewinder has a brushed mode and an adjustable drag brake. These features make it a good crawling speed control. The high torque servo you have is going to tax the speedo's BEC though, so you may want to bypass it and run an external CC BEC from Castle. It is also programable using the USB interface. Check Castle's website for info.
Wild_Weasel
11-13-2009, 09:15 AM
Thanks Arco! All great info. I can already tell I'm going to need another CR-01 kit to drive while I tinker with this one :D
Good news, I found a ProLine CJ-8 body in my loft last night! The wheelbase is very close to perfect. I bought this body a loooong time ago for a custom Blackfoot project I was working on and ended up selling the Blackfoot before I finished the project to a friend's son who fell in love with it. I see a 2.2 wheeled trail rig in my future! :) Pics of the body and other mods are forth coming...I managed to mess up my camera somehow (working on it).
Arcocustom
11-13-2009, 02:34 PM
Thanks Arco! All great info. I can already tell I'm going to need another CR-01 kit to drive while I tinker with this one :D
Yes, two are better than one.
Arcocustom
http://www.tamiyacrawlers.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=120&pictureid=886
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:D
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2548/4097033077_c80489f764_o_d.gif
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